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Of the four peaks in the former Soviet Union which are over 7000m high three lie in the Pamir Highlands of Central Asia. The name Pamir itself refers to the great valleys that divide the various mountain chains. Peak Lenin, at 7134m, is the third highest; the second highest is Peak Pobeda, which lies nearby in Tien Shan. Peak Lenin is located in the northern part of the High Pamir mountain chains - the Zaalayski Range. From the summit looking south-west the other major ranges dominate the skyline. On a clear day it is possible to see the summit of Peak Communism (7495m) the highest summit in the Pamir, and occasionally the Hindu Kush mountains some 140 miles away. Looking north one sees the great Kyzylsu (Red River) Valley,e to the east the Chinese Pamir. Peak Lenin is a popular mountain, it is often considered to be the easiest 7000m summit in the world for the climbers since it is relatively accessible and technically straight forward. We will climb the normal route up Peak Lenin via the Achik Tash.

MORE INFORMATION ON THE AREA

 

There are no real technical difficulties involved in this program. Apart from the altitude and physical requirements this route is technically similar to the ascent of Mt Elbrus or Mont Blanc. On Peak Lenin it is also necessary to adopt Himalayan-style, to camp in snow, and be prepared for poor weather. On Peak Lenin acclimatization trips are used for taking up supplies for the main ascent. Normally there is no ice at all, walking is on a firm snow or soft, deep snow. The equipment mentioned below is required for simple security when crossing crevasses or for crevasse rescue.

Although technically straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be underestimated since both are Himalayan in character. Efficient use of ice axe and crampons is essential. Experience in winter mountaineering should be encountered as on a Scottish grade II winter climb or an ascent of Mt Elbrus, Mont Blanc or another similar Alpine mountain. Our expedition team leaders will carry in much of the communal equipment to our base camp; group members will have to carry all their own personal equipment. There are no porters. On the ascent, members will also have to carry their personal equipment and a share of food for all those climbs. All communal equipment will be carried by the expedition team; depending on the group member/tent ratio, members may have to carry part of a tent. They will be expected to help as much as possible with camp chores especially in pitching tents at each stage. The ascent is very much a team effort.GRADES

 

The team leader will be an experienced guide who has ascended Peak Lenin and has made other ascents of the mountains over 7000m. There will be an assistant guide with 7000m experience. One of the assistant guides will act as a cook, there will also be a base camp cook and a base camp doctor who will be fully equipped.

Apart the team named above, there is also a permanent rescue team available close to our base camp and we will have constant radio contact with the rescue center and helicopter base.

 

At all stages of the expedition food will be prepared by the Russian team. Food at high altitudes, in order to be palatable, is a very important item and most people find dehydrated foods and warm-in-a-pouch foods, even of the best quality, rather unappetizing. We will be using slightly heavier but more edible foods, some canned, for our main meals. All participants are strongly recommended to make up their own personal goody-pack of snacks that they particularly enjoy. This should not weigh more than about 2kg. Accommodation is in a small hotel in Osh. In the base camp there will be a mess tent and group members will sleep in comfortable two-person double skin tents. On the ascent 2 or 3 good quality, high altitude man tents will be used.

 

Mountain weather is variable; on Peak Lenin bad weather and snow conditions are possible. Temperatures at the base camp may drop to - 3 C; on the ascent it may drop to -15 C. Good equipment for cold conditions and snow and ice climbing is essential, i.e. double boots, duvet jacket, mitts, harness, ice axe and ski poles, 4 season sleeping bag, a big rucksack and soft sports-type bag. A full kit list will be given with the pre-departure information.

 

Climbing to 7000m requires good physical fitness and health and it is advisable to consult your doctor prior to booking to discuss this. Diamox may be taken as an aid on the climb - please consult your own doctor. Although the hygiene is good, a change in diet may cause some stomach problems. No special inoculations are required but we recommend that your tetanus inoculations were up to date and that you also consult your doctor for other cover. An emergency medical kit accompanies the trek and the staff include qualified medical personnel. We nevertheless recommend that you carry your own personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents as well as more general health information is included in your pre-departure information.

A Kyrghyzstan visa is required. Full details of the procedures involved will be included in the pre-departure brochure.