Caucasus > GEORGIA ACCESS

GEORGIA ACCESS

Direct flights from Western Europe to Tbilisi (the capital of Georgia). Bus connection from Turkey via town Batumi and from the Southern Russia over Main Caucasian Chain (Krestovy Pass) via Vladikavkaz and Kazbegi. Pedestrian passes long used by travellers and the indigenous peoples, from W to E included: Dongusorun, Becho, Gezevtsek, Gurdzievtsek, Kutkh, and Rokski.
 
Ingur valley. Tbilisi- Zugdidi overnight train via Kutaisi, then by bus in 120 km to Mestia. Ones a mouth a public helicopter service operates between Tbilisi and Mestia, and occasionally stopping at Kutaisi, cutting the total journey time with transit connections to 3-4h. In settled times there is an express bus service Tbilisi to Kutaisi (5hrs) or from Tbilisi to Zugdidi (8hrs). Mestia, picturesque small town of fortified buildings, capital of Svanetia. Primitive lodging houses, campsite, very basic provisioning. Infrequent local bus/jeep service between valley villages and roadheads; several permanent alpine camp centres in main valley and side glens have remained disused in recent years. As a major mountaineering centre, offers much wider scope and variety than Bezingi and compares favourably in most respects with the Baksan basin.
 
Tskhenis-Tskali valley. Tbilisi-Kutaisi (see Ingur above). Metalled road and bus service Kutaisi-Lentekhi (large village) via Tsageri, 98km. Continuation rough road/track with community transport to Zeskho alpine camp (60km) via villages Sasashi and Chikhareshi. Several lodging houses and basic provisioning. Perfect area for trekking and easy mountaineering. Considerable interest on S side of the Svanetian range and in the Lechkhum mountains.
 
Rion valley. Shortest route to Oni (small town) at the entrance to the upper valley is from Gori on the main railway line, then N to Tskhinvali in South Ossetia, up the Tskhaia branch of the Bol. Liakhvi valley and over moors to Kvaisi, thence Oni. Normally, public transport all the way, about 6h. Much longer and more viable alternative Tbilisi-Kutaisi and by road hugging R bank of the Rion via Ambrolauri/Kvatskhuti, all the way to Oni. From here, and after Utsera, the great valley divides. The E branch goes up to the Mamison pass, progressively undriveable at present, under the S side of the splendid Adai Khokh group. No reports of any Western parties having been in this area for some years.
The other (main) branch, along the upper Rion, attains with an unsurfaced track the villages of Chiora and Gebi; the latter, due to its ideal position between the Laboda and Adai Khokh groups, has the potential to become a major resort in a superb mountain walking area and offering considerable climbing interest. Public transport to Oni; probably difficult beyond there at present.
 
Liakhvi valley. Though close to Tbilisi, entering this sector through Gori and Tskhinvali, the principal town of South Ossetia (rail spur), is impracticable at present due to civil unrest. A strong political movement against Georgian rule seeks to form an alliance or merge with the pro Russian North Ossetian region across the border. In ordinary times, the excellent road up this valley, with a good bus service, leads to the collective Roka settlements at intersection of ridges coming from the 3 prominent mountains groups of Khalatsa, Zilga-Kalasan and Keli. A potential excellent climbing and trekking area.
 
Aragvi valley (leading to Terek valley). This valley is entered almost immediately due N of Tbilisi and it served by the well maintained Georgian highway up to the Krestovy pass, overlooking the headwaters of the Terek valley which remains part of Georgia down the other (N) side to Sioni, Kazbegi and the impressive part of Dariali gorge, before crossing into Russia near the Lars villages. In the upper Aragvi, the boundary with South Ossetia is marked by the enclosing ridge to the W and up into the Keli lakes group; easy side valley access to the latter. After the Mleta village, you pass Gudauri where a big sprawl upwards of skilifts, hotels and chalets has been built in anticipation of developing a major winter sports area.
On the N side of the pass the upper Terek valley, forking NW at Kobi, offers rarely visited ways into the Kazbek, Gimarai and Zilga Khokh-Kalasan groups. In the Dariali gorge at Kazbegi, small hotels, camping and very basic provisioning. Kazbek is the principal ascent. Bus service Tbilisi - Kazbegi 149 km, 5 hours.

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