Detailed Itinerary

The following itinerary is a working guide only and it is a subject to variation as a result of climbing, weather and other conditions. We reserve the right to modify the itinerary at any time if necessary.

Day 1. Arrive in Tbilisi. Transfer airport-city. Hotel. Pre-Trek briefing.

Day 2. Early morning drive to the northern part of the Great Caucasus along Aragvi river and then cross the Jvari Pass (2380m) to a small town of Kazbegi and then village Gergeti (1750m. 4hrs driving). From here we start our trek to the campsite. We gain altitude walking up alpine pastures, enjoy wonderful views of the Trinity Church. Crossing the Sabertse Pass at 3150 metres walk down to our campsite at 2950m (about 4-5 hours walking).

Day 3. Continue our trek following a moraine and Gergeti Glacier to mountain hut Betlemi (former meteorological station at 3675m, 3-4hrs walking from the campsite). One will not expect much comfort in this high mountain hut, but we try our best.

Day 4. Sunrise viewed from the refuge provides breathtaking panorama of the Caucasus. This is day for acclimatization. Usually, in good weather conditions, we prefer to climb Mount Ortsveri, 4365m. grade 2. It is a good preparation before attempting Kazbek. We walk to the west and gain altitude up to 4000metres, where from we climb snow and icy north-east slopes to the summit, 4-5 hrs. Return to the refuge.

Day 5. The Summit Day. From the Betlemi hut a gently rising traverse W leads back to N side of the Ortsveri glacier. Now follow the glacier generally NW for 4km, passing under the S side of the mountain, to attain a large snow Maili Plateau at 4500m on the NW side of the summit area (3h); this section is easy if amply snow covered, but later in the day or late in the season great care must be taken as there are many crevasses in the glacier. Now a steeper slope leads to a small saddle on W side of the summit (4900m, 2h). Snow, rocks and easy angled ice (35 to 40 degrees) lead to the top; possibly 4 rope lengths of difficulty - max. PD sup, grade II+ (from Betlemi hut, about 7h). Return to the refuge, 4hrs.

Day 6. Spare day to attempt Kazbek in case if the weather on the day 5 was bad.

Day 7. After breakfast we walk down to Kazbegi, 4hrs. Drive to the hotel in Tbilisi and relax.

Day 8. Transfer to the airport. Departure from Tbilisi.