Mount Elbrus - Two Weeks

Almost all first time visitors to the Caucasus are keen to ascend Mount Elbrus, 5642m, the Europe's highest mountain.

The double-breasted summit of Elbrus can be seen for miles around from different parts of the Caucasus region. Both East (5621m) and West (5642m) summitsare permanently covered with snow. Many of the remote side valleys where it is possible to have some acclimatization training are seldom visited even by locals.

Our standard trip is 13 days. During the first we week we train in using an ice axe and crampons and have a good number of acclimatization walks. But for those who are already rather acclimatized, there is also an opportunity to join us for a short 8-day trip.

The trip begins with the arrival in Mineralnye Vody and driving to the base hotel in the Baksan Valley. From the hotel we make several trips following beautiful forested valleys, walking through alpine meadows, crossing glaciated mountain passes and climbing some of the easiest summits which provide superb panoramas of the Caucasus Range. These initial trips will be porter supported and will involve camping and backpacking. They will provide us with fitness and acclimatization necessary for the ascent of Elbrus itself. For the ascent of Elbrus we use a cable car system to take us to the height of about 3800m. We stay in the Garabashi Huts (3800m) or Diesel Hut (4100m). The actual program will depend on the weather, group condition and the availability of a snowcat which we will use according to the group’s wish to help us up the lower slopes of the mountain (if available and necessary).

THE GUIDE AND THE STAFF

Our chief guide and program manager in the Caucasus is Gia Ksnelashvili, a well-qualified and experienced mountaineer and leader with an expert knowledge of the Caucasus. He will be supported by other English speaking guides. They will have ropes and a radio.

Throughout summer months our staff are based at the hotel located in the forested Baksan Valley at the foot of the Mount Elbrus. This is our main base for mountaineering and skiing programs. Our staff include cooks, a doctor, porters and guides.

GRADE AND QUALIFICATION

This trip is graded as D. Although no advanced mountaineering experience is required, you should be familiar with the basic use of crampons and ice axes before the trip. Porters carry all food and group equipment as tents, ropes, cooking equipment and etc. Personal kit must be carried including your sleeping bag and mat. A limited number of porters can be hired at an extra charge to carry personal equipment where necessary.
This is a tough trip. Elbrus may be attempted by any strong mountain walker who is familiar with the use of an ice axe and crampons. Nevertheless it is important to remember that it is a mountain of almost Himalayan proportions and good acclimatization is essential. In bad weather conditions may become Arctic. You should carefully think over the clothes and respect the recommendations. The first week involves porter-supported back-packing, camping in alpine meadows crossing high passes and the ascent of a simple glaciated summit. Some of the days are very demanding physically. Some of the walking is on good paths but we trek over several passes, on steep, rugged ground, on glaciers and glacial deposits. We recommend some long walks before your trip and that your boots are well worn-in. The first half of the trip is carefully designed to ensure that all group members have the chance to become familiar and at ease with the use crampons and ice axe and that they have experienced a tough, long uphill day. As a result, our ascent success rate is very good. The final few days are devoted to the ascent of Elbrus.It must be remembered that Elbrus is an extremely serious mountain in spite of it’s technical ease. The guides’ decision to turn back should be respected at all times.

For all these programs we generally fly in via Moscow and via St Petersburg. Services and tours in those cities are not included in the trip costs.

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATION

The hotel in the Elbrus area is pleasantly situated and friendly; rooms are generally double, facilities are ensuite but some being shared between two rooms. Accommodation on trek is in double-skinned three-man tents which are used for two people only - we ask you to assist with pitching your tent. On Elbrus itself we stay either in Huts with mattresses or we camp with a mess tent for meals. Food on trek is prepared by our own cooks from fresh foods supplemented by supplies. As the variety of foods available in Russia is rather limited we recommend that you bring with you a small selection of "goodies" - chocolates, nuts etc. which you are particularly fond of. These will be useful especially at times when the altitude might reduce your appetite for main meals or when you need energy for the final summit push. We try to cater for vegetarians but we cannot provide the same standard as expected in the West. We suggest that vegetarians take their own protein supplement if this is likely to cause a problem.

HEALTH MATTERS AND DOCUMENTS

An emergency medical kit accompanies the climb. Nevertheless we recommend you to carry your own personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents as well as more general health information is included in pre-departure information. No special inoculations are required but we recommend to have inoculations up to date and to consult a doctor for other cover such as typhoid. Check if the insurance is up to date and covers mountain risk.

A visa is required. Full details of the procedures involved will be included in the pre-departure information.

WEATHER, EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHES

Mountain weather is variable. In the valleys it is possible for daytime temperatures to rise over 25oC. Higher up it will be cooler, even in strong sunlight. At night, especially at the high campsites, it can be very cold and you are likely to experience frosts. Although this is generally the drier side of the Caucasus, rain, summer storms and even snowfall on the passes could be encountered at any time. On Elbrus the weather can turn Arctic. Very warm and wind-proof clothes are necessary for the ascent including both inner and outer waterproof gloves/mittens, duvet jacket, fleece and thermals.
Double boots would be useful on Elbrus and on the ascent of Gumachi but would not be comfortable for the other walks unless you are already used to wearing them. Stiff, mountain boots suitable for winter mountaineering are probably the best compromise. You will also need an ice axe and crampons; ski sticks are an optional extra.
We also would like you to take a lightweight harness with karabiner. You might not need them but it can be useful in bad weather, and in different snow conditions that we can meet on the mountain. A four season sleeping bag and a 60 liter rucksack should be adequate. It will be always possible to leave luggage at the Hotel during the trip.

A detailed list of equipment will be sent along with confirmation.

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Mount Elbrus - Two Weeks

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